Journey to the original place

Note: The original article was published in Russian on the Israeli Russian newspaper "News of the Week" from June 20, 2013 and an shorter version was published on the website Chechelnik.com
This is an automatic translation by Google of the shorter version. To read it in Russian go here
Any volunteer providing a correct translation of the article will be welcomed.
This article provides also several pictures provided by the author that have not been published in the original article.

by Alexander Vishnevetsky

At the time of this trip is not just remembered lines from a poem by Gennady Shpalikov: By unfortunately or fortunately, / The truth is simple: / Do not come back / to the same position ... /

Contrary to the advice of the poet, our group of former juvenile prisoners of the ghetto made an attempt to return to out former places - in the former Jewish towns south of the Vinnytsia region in the Romanian occupation zone. There we were born on the eve of the war and the children were in the ghetto. Of these villages, each of us has left many years ago, we have studied and worked in different republics of the USSR, and later emigrated to Israel. And the opportunity to "return to our former place." We decided ... The group consisted of four people: Lily Glaser, Tatiana Dralyuk, Ida Mirtsin and this author.

I was not in our native lands for almost sixty years. And quite frankly, now on a long-term stay in these places a large Jewish community like much. But this failed to detect smoldering ashes of sparks.

We were invited to tour the "Christians for Israel" - in the winery is an office Karlira Kuhn, a representative of the international organization in the former Soviet Union and the coordinator for cooperation with Jewish organizations in Ukraine. Evangelical Christians-Baptists in Ukraine, 131,000 in 2009, their worship is visited by about 300,000 people. The influence of evangelicals in the post-Soviet state is enhanced and Israel has found in them its faithful and loyal ally.

We arrived in Kiev airport "Borispol" in the evening, we were met by a driver from Yuri organization "Christians for Israel". After dinner in the tavern "Puzata hut" delegation brought to the center of evangelists, 20 kilometers from Kiev, with a huge park and landscaped buildings. We had enough sleep and rest, and in the morning went to Vinnitsa. Drivers of vehicles Yuri, Igor Danilo who have been with us all the days of numerous travels did everything to make the trips comfortable: in fact the average age of the members of the delegation was about 75 years.

Along the way we passed in Vinnitsa Zhitomir and Berdichev, but stayed in the Jewish towns in the past: one in the afternoon had come to the village Lisovalisievka (near the district center Kalynivka and 15 km from Vinnitsa) to take part in the opening of the memorial Victims of the Holocaust. Because of the unimportant roads pripozdal the rally. As it turned out, this is the twelfth monument erected organization "Christians for Israel" on undetected or not immortalized places the extermination of Jews in Vinnitsa region. At a rally attended arrived from Holland a group of 11 people, local residents, students of the local schools, Jewish activists and the rabbi of Vinnitsa. At the opening ceremony of the monument was made by Kuhn Karlir. Our Lily Glaser told about himself, about his experiences in the ghetto villages Zhabokrich. The schoolchildren with speech Dralyuk Tatiana, a former prisoner of the ghetto in Kryzhopol. By memorial wreaths were laid. Then, a local Jewish businessman Scherban, who made ??a significant contribution to the construction of the monument, took us for generously set tables in a restaurant in Kapinovke. Were uttered speech to Russian and Dutch.

In the winery settled in a comfortable hotel "Dobrodiy." It took a closer acquaintance and exchange of views with the Dutch group, which also lived in this hotel. Each of us talked about himself, about the stay in the ghetto, our Jerusalem organization of former ghetto and concentration camps, her work. In a personal communication with the Dutch Lily Glaser and Tatyana Dralyuk used a good knowledge of English, I succeeded due to a mixture of German and Yiddish. Also at the meetings with the Dutch, we had a translator, one of them - Irene Sulima, wife of Kuhn. The Dutch were particularly interested in us, representatives of the latest generation of the living witnesses of the Holocaust. Therefore, after a meeting at the hotel, it was decided to go to church, "House of the gospel," built on donations of evangelical Christians. We were in this huge building, then to the nearest public garden continued the conversation.

The same day, a meeting was held with members of the community of Vinnitsa former juvenile prisoners of ghettos and concentration camps, established in 1993. Then it united 600 people, now there are only 88. Evangelical Christians and assist the organization. Its chairman, Gregory Kaufman said: "Before the war, 16 percent of the population was Jewish skirts, now - less than 0.2 percent. According to the Vinnitsa region the death toll in the occupation was 215,000, of whom more than 200,000 - the Jews ..." We exchanged experiences in Jerusalem and Vinnitsa organizations of former prisoners. Then visited a small Museum of Jewish Heritage, chaired by Lyudmila Borisovnoj Voytenko. We were presented with lists of books on Jewish subjects, published in the winery in Russian, including several editions of "Podolsky Jewish Almanac."

In the evening there was a trip to the city center, accompanied by Leonid Trachtenberg, who heads the Holocaust Memorial Museum in Vinnitsa. He drew our attention to the beautiful architecture of the city, well-maintained park, a memorial to those killed in the war. We visited the unique musical fountain with laser light effects. The city order, landscaped streets and roads. All those who communicate with us, spoke warmly about a 35-year-old Vladimir Groisman, mayor of Vinnitsa. In October 2010, a record for the heads of the regional centers of Ukraine support (77.8 percent of the vote), he was re-elected mayor.

The next day started with a loading parcels with humanitarian aid from the organization "Christians for Israel" for the Jewish community Zhmerinka. We, together with a group from the Netherlands left there. At a meeting of the city's Jews came about twenty people, mostly elderly. In front of them was made ??by Kuhn, who said that the main purpose of "Christians for Israel" is the return of the Jews to their historic homeland. The objectives of the organization also includes a visit to the elderly and the sick, help with food parcels to local Jews, erection of monuments to those killed in the Holocaust. Carlier said that the Christian church in the past distorted historical facts and slandering the Jews, causing anti-Semitic manifestations. But we see, he said, as Israel was reborn as he managed to defeat many enemies. All this, according to the evangelists, the manifestation of Gd's providence. The task of true Christians - to support the Jewish people. Representatives of the group from the Netherlands said that Gd will provide the peace of the world through the huts rannogo welfare of the people, they pray for peace in Israel. Were made ??and the members of our group, is proud to tell about life in the Jewish state.

In the afternoon we visited the Museum of the Holocaust, and then met with members of the club EB Reiske agency "Jewish Agency". The museum focused materials and documents about the death of Jews during the war in the Vinnitsa region. In the next to the museum hall meeting with members of the club, which was attended by about forty people. Poem was read by Anatoly Bortnyaka the Ukrainian language on the fate of members of our delegation Lilies Glaser

In the evening a dinner together with the Dutch group and the participation of activists of the Jewish community of Vinnitsa. The surprise was the performance of women's ensemble "Simha" with songs in Yiddish.

The next morning went to the Bratslav, where we were met by the local Jewish community activist Yefim Tsirulnik. He said that in the Breslov had three ghetto. His mother was fourteen years old, along with his younger brother at the beginning of the war were in the Crypt death camp. The German and Romanian commandant here to work together, those Jews who tried to escape were shot.

In the Crypt death camp, later called "Deadlock", people were dying of hunger and cold, hard labor in a quarry, in the construction of the road. Monument to the Fallen in Pecher, we were shown opened in 1990. Together with Efim we visited a huge ruined stone building with Jewish architecture, where was a synagogue of Rabbi Nachman of Bratslav. Unfortunately, until now no one has made ??attempts to restore this historic structure.

Later, there was a meeting with the Jews Breslov - they are now home to only 47 people, including 9 children from the age of fifteen years in the former village are also some of the Hasidim of Israel, talked with us Faina Baek, chairman of Bratslav religious community. We visited the old mill Solitermana Jacob, visited the Jewish cemetery, where first came to the Ohel Shterngartsa Nathan, a native of Nemirova, a faithful follower of Nahman of Bratslav who recorded all his sayings and parables. Nachman and his wife Sasey lived for many years in Bratslav. A tzaddik is buried in Uman, where he constantly prayed to the tens of thousands of Jews who died at the hands of the leaders of the gangs at the time Haidamaks Koliyivshchyna shingles and Zheleznyaka.

On this trip we were accompanied by Ukrainian pastor of Nemirova Igor Sheremet. He asked the audience Breslov Jews apologize for the troubles that were caused by the Jews in the Ukraine. Since we met Yuri Maksimchu entrepreneur, who bought the mill Solitermana - he asked for advice on the use of the historic building. We recommended him to think on a larger scale: in Bratslav, you can create a powerful center of Hasidic pilgrimage like Uman. Here, for it has enough monuments as Hasidism and terrible reminder of the Holocaust. Three powerful Hasidic center in Ukraine - Uman, Меджибож and Bratslav - could attract many Jewish pilgrims from all over the world.

In the winery our delegation was invited to his home pastor Pavel Malinich. This is a very erudite and a young man travels to Ukraine to preach in support of the Jewish people and Israel. His views are shared by his wife and two sons. At this meeting, and the whole family was Kuhn.

And now it's time to breakup. In parting, we visited the house Karlira, discussed further with the organization "Christians for Israel": a visit to the German and Dutch delegations our house prisoners in Jerusalem, joint trips to Israel. Expressed deep appreciation for the wonderful hospitality and travel organization

Then went to Chechelnik. This is my native place, which my parents and I left about 60 years ago. We passed through Bershad, where we waited for the chairman of the local community Yefim Vygodner who accompanied the delegation for two days. Given the bad roads were in Chechelnik until the second half of the day. And to 19.00 should be back in Bershad. Visited the cemetery where visited the Ohel of Rabbi Moshe Zvi of Savran: the structure was severely damaged this winter - collapsed part of the roof. Me and Lily Glaser found in the cemetery graves of relatives.

After you have gone to the old stone ruined synagogue. On the way to her saw several abandoned Jewish homes. Due to the fact that they were on the car, quickly climbed the Kodyma hill, where at a glance views of the town. Hence it was possible to photograph a panorama Chechelnik and separate species. My native place, like others, has changed beyond recognition. The changes also affected the Jews from the once dominant Jewish population there were only two elderly women. In Chechelnik visited the memorial in which the dead are immortalized in Golo domore, during World War II and by the Chernobyl nuclear disaster that touched these places its radioactive wing. The list of the war dead - and the names of two of my uncles and my father's nephew. Was able to meet with the journalist Larisa Shabelnik of the weekly newspaper "Chechelnytsky vistnyk" that printed on the pages of my material.

From Bershad went to the district and village center Kryzhopol Zhabokrich. This is a place of residence during the Holocaust Lilies, Tatiana and Ida. In Kryzhopol a Jewish graveyard we expect Marat Vilshanetsky that monitors the state of the Jewish cemeteries and memorial sites in the district center, and is located near the Zhabokricha. Thanks to the work of his assistants, and the status of these objects is good. A memorial table at the place of death of Jews during the Holocaust.

At the cemetery in Kryzhopol Lily Glaser, Tanya Dralyuk and Ida Mirtsin found graves of loved ones and relatives. There were no tears ... We also visited the memorial to the war dead, where Lily found their father's surname.

The library Kryzhopol met with the locals, we were given a very warm welcome. Students read excerpts from the memoirs of Kryzhopol Jews who survived the Holocaust. At the meeting, spoke Lily Glaser told about himself. And Tatiana Dralyuk read a poem about how, in the basement of his grandfather Lilies Glaser of 400 Jews were shot and killed her mother. She managed to hide this little Tanya in an iron barrel in the basement, which saved her life. I spoke to sitting in the hall of the library, where there were only two local Jew in Ukrainian. On behalf of the local people we were greeted by Eugene F. Godovany, a local scholar, an expert on Jewish history and culture.

Then we were invited to the school where we were greeted by the director and the high school student. The delegation was warmly received by the head of the district state administration Lidia Semeniuk.

In Zhabokriche we met a group of villagers, including one of the savior of the Lilies, 92-year-old was flowing Frosyny daughter, who is mentioned in the poem of the Lilies Glaser Bratyuk (the two women rescued Lily and her mother from starvation during the war and after it), and Liling school friends. From the joy of meeting in decades were all crying. At the cemetery in the woods Lily found her mother's grave. We also visited on the site of the execution of Jews Zhabokricha.

In the evening, back in Bershad, where they met with local Jews in the old synagogue, which is about two hundred years. We talked about themselves, answered questions from the audience. Among other questions were asked about the German benefits for former prisoners of ghettos and concentration camps. Unfortunately, there are cases in bershadtsev clearly dysfunctional - affects their ignorance because of small and middle-aged members of the community. We promised to try to help them in this matter.

On the way to Kiev, could not stop in Uman, where the main focus of our attention has become the most visited Hasidic world place - the grave of Nachman of Bratslav and a huge synagogue with her. There are several high-rise hotels built for the Hasidim. Entrance to the complex synagogues and graves Nachman Ukrainian police guards. Inside the building was a lot of praying Hasidim. Women were not allowed in the complex. My questions in Yiddish to the Hasidim were ignored, had to go to Hebrew. Then, the object of our visit was the national arboretum "Sofievka" created by Count Potocki.

We took our time in Kiev - this day was to be held a big concert dedicated to the 65th anniversary of the State of Israel, Jerusalem Day and Shavuot. In Ukraine, as elsewhere in the diaspora, the date of the proclamation of the State of Israel was observed on the European calendar. The celebration took place at the Cinema House in the hall with 800 seats, which was completely full. Attended by the Ambassador of Israel to Ukraine Reuven Din El and his assistant Carmel Yitzhak Kahan. Together with our group for this meeting came from Vinnitsa Kong Karlir. The Israeli ambassador shares his thoughts on the relations between Ukraine and Israel, the Holocaust, spoke about the Ukrainian Righteous world. At this meeting also made Lily Glaser.

The concert began with a performance ensemble "Keshet" ("Rainbow") from Estonia. In his performance sounded popular Israeli songs in Hebrew, each greeted with thunderous applause, which was felt love and respect for the Jewish people, Israel. We felt a sense of pride. In between performances with short speeches to the audience addressed by leading pastors - President of the Association of Independent Christian Charismatic Churches (Full Gospel) Anatoly Gavriliouk, Bishop of the Church of God Association of Ukraine Vitaliy Voznyuk, pastor of the Church of the Kiev "Victory" and founder of the international ministry Henry Madhava. In response to these statements, Israeli Ambassador said that he was grateful for such a sincere, friendly support the State of Israel, thrilled and moved. There was also a documentary about the creation, establishment and development of modern Israel. Finally, President Ukrainian Bible Society Gregory commandant said a prayer for Israel.

And then came the last day of our stay in Ukraine. In the morning we went to Kiev, where, together with the soloists of the ensemble "Keshet" visited the place of mass execution of Jews - Babi Yar. Accompanied us and gave an explanation of the international coordinator of the Christian ministry "Christians for Israel" on the interaction with the churches in Ukraine Dmitry Mishkur. And in parting, we visited the beautiful architecture and monuments of the main street of Kiev - Khreschatyk Street.

We left Ukraine with conflicting emotions. On the one hand, were delighted with the towns and villages with their distinctive architecture, huge green fields, rivers and lakes, forests and alleys along the roads. Pleasing display of friendship, sympathy and respect for us, and to Israel by the current Ukrainian population - especially evangelical Christians. But the sad and painful to see every step of the reminder in the form of headstones, memorial plaques, memorials in memory of the innocent victims in the Holocaust Jews, including our family and friends.

Jewish towns were deserted, and only the abandoned Jewish cemetery houses remind us of the past. As heart ached at the sight of the destroyed synagogues time and man ... How bitter weeping women from our group, meeting reminders of a bygone e tragedy during the Holocaust ... And every time the memories were other lines of the already mentioned at the beginning of these notes, poems Gennady Shpalikov:

Even if the ashes / Looks quite / not find what looking for, / Neither you nor I ...

More pictures

The ruined Synagogue	The ruined Synagogue
Still standing abandoned Jewish houses in the town	Still standing abandoned Jewish houses in the town
Still standing abandoned Jewish houses in the town	Still standing abandoned Jewish houses in the town